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MOUNT’S BAY LUGGER ASSOCIATION NEWSLETTER

DECEMBER 2006  

Editorial

Your association has had another successful year and many of you have now sailed on “Happy Return”. However, the committee recognise the need to keep the wider membership informed of our activities, particularly as we are gaining an increasing number of supporters from outside of Cornwall. For those with access to the Internet, our website www.mbla.co.uk is updated with association news but we will in future attempt to produce a twice yearly newsletter containing information on our programme, together with short articles on some of our activities. This letter contains reports on some of this year’s sailing trips but we need a regular supply of material for future copies. Please forward anything you consider might be of interest to our membership to Ray Fordham, either by email to rmwfordham@dsl.pipex.com or by post to 1,Higher Eglos Cottages, Ludgvan, Penzance TR20 8HQ

Copy for the next letter should reach me by the end of March 2006.

The  committee send members and their families best wishes for Christmas and the New Year.

 

 Programme

Saturday 20 January.

Annual Dinner at Yacht Inn, Penzance 7.30 for 8pm

Three course meal. Main choice of Roast Pork, Roast Beef or Vegetarian Dish.

Reservations to John Tellam, Meadow Studio, 3 The Meadow, Newlyn, Penzance TR18 5JJ (cost £14.50. Cheques to be made out to Mount’s Bay Lugger Association)

Wednesday 24 January. 7.30 pm Yacht Inn.. Lugger Skills. Informal meeting over a drink to discuss the practical aspects of sailing a lugger. Topics to include ropes, charts, sails  etc.. Co-ordinated by Mark Mitchell.

Wednesday  21 February. 7.30 pm Yacht Inn. More Lugger Skills.

Wednesday 14 March. Annual General Meeting, The Reading Room, Queen’s Hotel, Penzance,8.00pm

Nominations for election to the Executive Committee and any other business items should be sent in writing to the secretary Ray Fordham by 1st March.

Members are reminded that the annual subscription of £15 becomes due at the AGM. However, members who joined after 1 September this year are covered through to 2008.

Wednesday 21 March. 7.30 pm. Yacht Inn. (TBC) Yet more Lugger Skills.

 

Work Sessions. Weather permitting, work sessions will take place on Happy Return from about 11am on Saturdays throughout the winter. Help get the lugger ship shape in time for the 2007 Sailing Season. Confirm arrangements with one of the skippers.

 

Help needed at the Newlyn Fish Festival. Our major fund raising event of the year is barbecuing pilchards at the Newlyn Fish Festival. This is conditional on us having a member on the stand who holds a current Basic Food Hygiene Certificate. We urgently need a couple of members willing to attend the day course at Penwith College to gain the certificate and help on our stand at Newlyn. The MBLA are willing to pay the fee if someone is prepared to volunteer his or her time. Day courses take place at the college on 18 January, 15 February, 15 March, 5 May and 14 June.

 

2006 Sailing Season. With a few changes due to weather and crew availability, the programme took place as scheduled. 77 members (almost 70 percent of the total membership) sailed at least once on Happy Return and many of these returned for more of the fun. All members are entitled to participate in the sailing activities but need to contact the listed skipper beforehand as we are licenced to carry 12 persons only. Some sailings are inevitably cancelled due to bad weather.

2007 Sailing Programme. This is being put together over the winter and a provisional version should be available in time for the AGM. It will then be sent out to members and posted on our website. If you have any particular destinations or events that you wish us to include, please let us know as soon as possible. The following accounts give some flavour of past trips.

Request for information. We are the proud owners of one of the few remaining luggers built in Mount’s Bay but where are the others? Please let us know of any that you may come across in your travels.

Advertisement. Looking for a Christmas or Birthday present for someone special? MBLA membership lasts a year and contributes to the upkeep of Happy Return, part of Cornwall’s maritime heritage.

 

‘HAPPY RETURN’ enters  P.A.S.A.B. 2006 by Peter May

PASAB, from Penzance Around Scilly And Back, is Penzance Sailing Club’s annual race to the Scillies. It was originally sailed without a stopover and to achieve a 100 mile race, ‘a short run in the wrong direction’ to Mountamopus Buoy was included.  This original course is shown on the Overall Manzi Trophy, donated by Mike Manzi, a local jeweller. From the original non-stop race, it progressed to 2 legs comprising ‘to Scilly’, then back via Bishop Rock Lighthouse. It increased to 3 legs thus giving a ‘recovery’ day in Scilly, which proved popular and was used for some 20 years.  The Club wished to celebrate the Millennium and introduced a 4th leg by splitting the round the islands leg into two  - the half including the Bishop Rock Lighthouse one day and the other half the next day.  This 4-legged format has been used twice, but PASAB is now back to 3 legs with two nights stopover in Scilly.

This year, MBLA entered “Happy Return” in PASAB - a first for a lugger.  For those of you who understand these things, a Portsmouth Yardstick (PY) handicap number of 1100 was allocated.

The start at 2000 BST Friday 28 July was very convenient as HW at 19.30 enabled us to depart the floating dock just prior to the start. 
Crew on board – Peter May, Mike Halse, Mark Mitchell, John Tellam, Matt Ninnis & Dave Keast.

Leg 1 of PASAB started from Penzance with a  South  force 3 wind, a beat to Lowlee Buoy, a reach to Mountamopus Buoy, thence close hauled to Scilly, passing south of the Wolf.  As Happy Return does not beat well, by the time we reached Low Lee, the rest of the fleet were well ahead.  The reach to Mountamopus saw us gaining a little back on the fleet.  However, after rounding the buoy, we were close hauled, and struggled to find the best course. As all previous entrants know, it always seems an age before the lights of Penzance disappear and you get out of Mount’s Bay, and this year was no exception.  It was gone midnight before we were along the Southern shore, and heading out of the Bay.

By the time we were abeam the Runnel Stone buoy, we should have been miles further south, or should that be ‘we were miles further to the north than we should have been’?  At this point, to further complicate matters, the wind eased, and the boat slowed, so we had to bear away to get enough boat speed to arrive at the Wolf before the tide turned North.  We were not too concerned, as the strong southerly tide once we were past Lands End would help.  The wind started to pick up and it looked as though we would pass south of the Wolf, but alas, it veered to SSW, heading us again.  What is it you say? “the best laid plans of mice & men” or “that’s sailing for you”.

The result of all this veering etc, the tide was now against the wind and the sea state roughened, so, by the time we were level with the Wolf, we were 0.9 mile North of the Lighthouse.  By now, the sea was very sloppy (see above - the tide against the wind!), but Happy Return was coping marvellously despite throwing a lot of water around.  We tried going about and reducing sail by dropping the forelug as we tacked from port tack to starboard tack and hoisting the mizzen as a main on starboard tack.

Happy Return did not go through the wind, so we decided to gybe around.  However, there was too much power in the small mizzen, so we had to drop it to enable us to gybe.  During this time we lost even more distance to windward, and were now 1.8 miles from the Wolf.  The tide had now turned and was running North strongly.  Happy Return could now only steer a course of 120° magnetic. Add to this the tide and leeway, we were heading back towards the Lizard and it would take forever to make enough South to clear the Wolf.  With many crewmembers now feeling ill from the sheer effort of the tacking manoeuvres, we decided to tack (gybe around) and head directly for Scilly. By passing north of the Wolf meant we had to officially retire from Leg 1 of PASAB.  Happy Return tramped along at 7 knots making good time.  But, when we were within 8 miles of St Mary’s, the wind headed us thus reducing our speed to 2.5 knots.  We started the engine and motored in through Crow Sound arriving at St Mary’s at 07.20 BST where we tied up alongside the quay with other entrants.  Breakfast, some sleep, and then to the Mermaid to recuperate ready for the next day’s leg ‘Around the Islands’.

Leg 2  started Sunday 0900 BST. The course was from St Mary’s, clockwise around all Islands and drying rocks, back to St Mary’s.  The wind was SW 2-5.  We started on a port tack and held that tack to within a few yards of Samson shore.  A tack here saw us making Stevel and St Mary’s sound.

We met “Grendel” returning to the harbour with a damaged bow. Now how did that happen we wondered?  After we reached Spanish Ledge Buoy we could only harden up a little.  By this time, most of the fleet was almost out of sight near Gorregan. Three miles south of St Agnes, just before we tacked we passed close to David Thompson who was trawling with Swan Dancer.  A tack here saw us clearing Pednathise.  The tide now started running against the wind helping us on our way, but kicking up a steep sea. As we passed the Gilstone we could ease the sails and free off for a super sail to the Bishop Rock Lighthouse.  We passed the Bishop at 12.59 BST. At 13.45 we were north of Tresco and could see Cromwell’s Castle. The winds lightened in the lee of the islands and progress slowed. This leg of the race has a time limit and with the handicap we had been allocated we had to finish by 17.48 BST.  It became obvious we were not going to meet this time limit but we sailed until 17.45 when we retired at Hats Buoy. Again we moored alongside the quay at St Mary’s.  We had booked a table for a meal in the Scillonian Club where the Sailing Club was presenting the Venus trophy for Leg 2.  This was won By David Mawer of St Mary’s in his Hunter Sonata “Mood Dancer” (formerly “Ludwig”, and renamed “Black Adder” at Penzance Sailing Club).

Monday 0900 BST was the start of Leg 3 back to Penzance.  Frank Gibson wanted Happy Return to be close to the end of the quay to take some photos.  Typically, with restricted space in this area, we did not have a good start. The wind was SW 4-5 and again we tacked close to Sampson shore to make St Mary’s sound.  After we passed the Woolpack Beacon, it was downhill all the way.  By 12.50 BST we were at the Wolf. Three miles passed the Wolf and a Mayday relay came over the radio.  Yacht “Sequester” was dismasted in a position 49° 59’.044 N, 005° 38’.081 W, 3 ½ miles south of Logan Rock. This was 4 miles ahead of our position so we altered course 080°.  When we reached “Sequester”, her mast, rigging & sails were all hanging over the side.  The Penlee Lifeboat was on her way so we stood by for 20 minutes until the lifeboat arrived.  We then hoisted the sails and continued to race.  We crossed the finishing line at 15h 57m 31s BST. cAt least we finished this leg.  On our time slips we claimed redress for the time we were standing by “Sequester”.  Unfortunately, our race position in this leg was not calculated, as we were in a class of our own and not in the running for any prizes, having retired from two legs, and a protest meeting would have to consider our claim for redress.

Dave Keast, master photographer, filmed during the race and has produced a video.  This will be shown at a Winter talk or some other convenient occasion.  Do come along to these evenings.

Shall we put PASAB into the programme next year? When we get the dates, see the tides and see what other events are programmed we will decide. Any preferences or suggestions please let us know.

 

St. Ives and Back by Mark Mitchell

Earlier this year a plot was hatched over in St. Ives to build some new boats, well replicas of some rather old boats which are known as Jumbos. The plan was to encourage the building of these craft and in doing so revive the maritime heritage of the town. Thus an invitation was received to participate in two races in the bay at St. Ives on Saturday 9th of September 2006. The event being titled ‘BOATS IN THE BAY’ celebrating  the launch of the Jumbo Project.

The weekend of the 9th was programmed for a day sail with myself as skipper, so when David Need suggested with some enthusiasm that we must attend, the ball soon went into motion and David become the mate.  Finding a crew proved to be very easy, thus with a week to go we were all sorted.

Skipper                   Mark Mitchell.            Mate                David Need

Crew                       Alan MacRea, Chris Hughes, Jol Paling, Davie Keast and Neil Wearne

So far, so good.  Now what of the weather.? The master plan was to move the Happy Return from Penzance to Newlyn on the Friday afternoon, then depart Newlyn on the Friday night, sailing around Lands End and up the North Coast, making the best of the tide.  This plan in principle was a very sound plot but for one thing, the weather, to say that it was a bit windy is definitely an under statement.  South Easterly at that, straight into Mount’s Bay. Not to be put off, at 4pm we mustered and proceeded to Newlyn.  This little passage was described by one crewmember as lively, another under statement.  Putting into Newlyn on one of the highest tides of the year, it was deemed much safer to be moored next to a big Scottish scalloper, where after some discussion departure was delayed until Saturday morning.                                               

At nine o’clock the intrepid crew mustered aboard by which time the wind, which was still in the South East, had reduced  to a force four.  There was still a fair ground swell so we motored out to a position about a mile south of St. Clement’s Island prior to hoisting the large fore lug and the small mizzen sail.  The effect was instant, the boat took off over the ground at about eight knots.  This weekend having some of the largest tides of the last twenty years, meant that with the tide and the boat speed together we were flying.  In a very short time we came up to the Runnel Stone, another mile and the lug was dipped, putting us on a heading to pass one mile to the West of the Longships.  Taking an offshore route the tide and the wind stayed in our favour, until we were abeam of Gurnards Head, where at last the South Easterly wind which had helped us so much, now set on a course well to the north of St.Ives.  Tacking up the coast we resolved not to start the engine, but to sail the complete passage, thus at five in the afternoon we arrived just in time to witness the end of the second race between The Dolly and The Barnabas.

Even with our late arrival, the reception which we received was wonderful.  As we entered the anchorage our pilots came aboard in the form of Kirstan Gorvin and Mike Laity who promptly had us on a mooring in the Harbour. Legs over the side, a lift to shore and up the pub for a well earned pasty and a pint.  Later at the Fisherman’s Rest there were presentations to racers, winners and the odd late arrival, followed by one or two more pints and a late night snack. It would also be very amiss of me not to thank the Harbour Master, “Steve Bassett and the St. Ives sailing club for the welcome which we received.

Next morning, maybe not so bright, we motored out and picked up the Westbound tide in very light winds. The trip down the North Coast was very pleasant with the large foresail pulling gently and bit of breakfast as we went.  True to Murphy’s law, life is just not that simple and just as we were passing Pendeen Light a fog came up. Just like pea soup it was!  The Radar was switched on with Alan MacRea taking the watch and lookouts posted.  We did see the Longships as we passed and the Runnel Stone coupled with a fleeting glimpse of Porthcurno.  Otherwise the fog hid us all until our arrival at Penzance Quay.  One again the Happy Return returns.

 

Carry on up the Tamar by Ray Fordham

If the previous two articles have left you exhausted read on. This trip was as relaxing as a Saga holiday. Previously scheduled as a cruise to Ireland or France we settled for a relaxing sail along the South Cornwall coast. This wasn’t a case of poor navigation but rather a problem with weather prospects and crew availability. Anyway why go abroad when you already live in God’s own country?

 Bob Glanville and Mike Halse were skipper and mate, the crew consisted of John Tellam, Mike Williams, Craig Jackson, David Gibbon and Ray Fordham. With no-one to race and nothing to prove the trip was a holiday. No night sailing – you can appreciate the scenery better by day.

We left Penzance on 13 June and headed round the Lizard to our first night on a mooring off St Mawes, What do seven men do on a mooring? They don life jackets and go ashore in a rubber dinghy – the first party scouting for a pub. This became a well-established routine.

Day 2 we were more active and fished for mackerel. Happy Return is a decommissioned fishing boat but we assume that catching your lunch is not prohibited by DEFRA. David proved himself to be not only a master surgeon but a master chef. Mackerel have never tasted so good and not a bone in sight! At Fowey we moored close to the harbour. A shower at the sailing club and a meal at the Lugger Restaurant ended a perfect day.

Day 3 – after leaving Fowey at 12.30 we passed through the ‘bridge’ which is actuallly a narrow channel west of Drake’s Island, and into the Tamar Estuary. It soon became clear that an unwritten rule of the road is that the British Navy has right of way over a Cornish lugger, even if she is under sail. By 14.30. we were motoring under the Tamar Suspension Bridge and in too much of a hurry to arrive at our destination in the upper reaches of the river. By 17.30 we were waiting for the tide at the north east of Hatton Quay. Once we had water under our keel we made rapid progress to Calstock where we moored .Like intrepid explorers seeking a North passage to the Severn Estuary, we pushed on further with the local ferry man, passing the Garlandstone, a 1909 ketch, at Morwelham Quay. Will she ever see the sea again? Finally no way through so back to Happy Return and a trip ashore in the dinghy for dinner and a drink.

Day 4 – left the mooring at 08.10 – early for a holiday but ‘time and tide wait for no man’ particularly when he is on a boat. We were under full sail as we passed under Brunel’s Bridge – he would have taken it for granted but the Navy were probably a little nonplussed as we sailed through their dockyard.

From now on it was homeward bound – first stop the Fal River and eventually a mooring off Smugglers Cottage and yes- a short trip ashore for a drink.

Day 5 – the day started with a  trip up the Truro River to Malpas before returning to  Carrick Road and sailing in very light winds. We managed to reach Helford under sail and spent our final night on a mooring close to the yacht club.

Day 6 – an early start and back to Penzance just before bad weather set in.

 

From the Ship’s Log

Saturday November 18th 1854

Course WSW. Wind ENE

9am. All hands on board, slipped from the mooring and made sail for Australia.

11am  Abreast of the Wolf Rock, with the storm foresail and jib set squared.

Noon. A pleasant breeze and cloudy weather.  

No, not Happy Return but an earlier Mount’s Bay Lugger, the Mystery, en route to Australia

Saturday March 10th 1855

Ship riding to a raft prepared for the purpose to enable us to stem the briny ocean.

11 pm made the Australian land between Cape Northumberland and Cape Bridgewater

 

 
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